New to the climbing shoe scene, the Korean company Butora (BOO-TORE-AH) has come out with some great shoes and a unique fitting ideology that is sure to please climbers with hard-to-fit feet. While it would be fun to test the entire line-up we have to start somewhere and so chose the Butora Altura, a laced high-top like the TC Pro, to get us started. Features: High-top … Continue reading Review: Butora Altura Rock Shoe
Exceptionally light and compact, Evolv’s Cruzer Psyche is the way to go when you expect to spend most of the day with your approach shoes in the pack or clipped to your harness. This of course means that they excel on multi-pitch climbs that require a walk-off but they’re also good for the crag and I even as a hut bootie. So what’s the downside with these … Continue reading Review: Evolve Cruzer Psyche Approach Shoe
Every climber needs a robust, all-round go-to rope that they can abuse at the crag. Something to use when working a project, top-roping or teaching a friend how to climb. While all these sleek new triple rated, by-patterned, dry certified, sub 9mm ropes on the market are great, they’re also quite specialized and not really meant for everyday cragging. For that type of service the Edelrid … Continue reading Edelrid Boa Eco (AKA Parrot) Climbing Rope Review
La Sportiva came out with a new line of technical approach shoes this past spring and the lightest of this new trio, the TX2, caught my eye and begged to be looked at in detail. This new shoe was designed to be lightweight and packable with a sticky sole. A great combination of features for a place like Squamish. When first testing them out I was blown … Continue reading La Sportiva TX2 Approach Shoe Review
Squamish, located at the head of Howe Sound, is home to world class rock climbing on granite cliffs that seem to poke right out of the ocean amidst a thick forest of lush, towering trees. It is also home to the annual Arc’teryx Climbing Academy. Organized and run by Arc’teryx, the event will take place July 20-23, 2017. The line-up looks fantastic! Educational seminars and clinics … Continue reading Arc’teryx Climbing Academy 2017
Mammut’s innovative new helmet, the Wall Rider, features an Expanded polypropylene (EPP) foam body with a smallpolycarbonate cap on the top. This hybrid of exposed foam and hard-shell blends the features of two different helmet designs: the traditional lightweight in-mold helmet design and the super-light exposed foam design of the Sirocco (Petzl is upgrading the Sirocco with a similar composite design but I haven’t gotten my … Continue reading Mammut Wall Rider Helmet Review
When making the step from single to multi-pitch rock climbing you no longer have access to all the kit at the base of the climb. This means that you have decide what’s important enough to haul up the wall and what can be left behind. Below I provide an outline of the technical gear that I typically carry with me into the vertical world. I … Continue reading Essential Gear for Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing
The name Bella Coola conjures up visions of extreme Alaska-esq type skiing for the power hounds out there due to the number of ski movies that have filmed in the area. However, it’s relatively unknown in the ice climbing world. One of the obvious reasons for this, of course, is the remote nature of the community. You don’t drive through Bella Coola on the way … Continue reading Trip Report – Bella Coola Ice Climbing 2016
A good knife is an essential tool for all types of climbing. It’s used for cleaning manky tat off at a rap anchor, cutting cord for a v-thread, removing tape gloves, cutting a stuck rope out of a crack, slicing up a crag apple or cheese and much more. Despite the obvious importance of a knife in climbing it doesn’t seem to get discussed much … Continue reading Climbing Knife Comparison Review
Patagonia’s Houdini Jacket is a simple, lightweight, weather resistant shell that almost disappears into its own pocket when it’s not being used. While advertised as a shell for runners on Patagonia’s website we tested it on some multi-pitch rock climbs where weight and bulk are the enemy. The Houdini worked very well as a wind resistant layer and kept me dry during a few short … Continue reading Review: Patagonia Houdini
