A good knife is an essential tool for all types of climbing. It’s used for cleaning manky tat off at a rap anchor, cutting cord for a v-thread, removing tape gloves, cutting a stuck rope out of a crack, slicing up a crag apple or cheese and much more. Despite the obvious importance of a knife in climbing it doesn’t seem to get discussed much … Continue reading Climbing Knife Comparison Review
Patagonia’s Houdini Jacket is a simple, lightweight, weather resistant shell that almost disappears into its own pocket when it’s not being used. While advertised as a shell for runners on Patagonia’s website we tested it on some multi-pitch rock climbs where weight and bulk are the enemy. The Houdini worked very well as a wind resistant layer and kept me dry during a few short … Continue reading Review: Patagonia Houdini
Ok, I must admit that I am a bit of a gear junky. I enjoy checking out new gear (who doesn’t), reading technical specs (starting to leave the pack here), checking out design details and analysis (ok, starting to geek out) and at times material or metallurgical details (I know, I know…). But hey, I’m an Engineer (guiding doesn’t cover all the bills) and so … Continue reading Review: DMM Alloy Offset Nuts
This ingenious innovation from Mammut is always met with excitement from anyone I show it to and skepticism from anyone I describe it to… “it’s kinda like a rock climbers fanny pack, but really cool!”. All kidding aside, the multi-pitch chalk bag is a very functional piece of equipment that helps reduce harness clutter and fills the gap for multi-pitch climbs that are too long … Continue reading Review: Mammut Multi-Pitch Chalk Bag
Not sure what to get the ice climber or alpinist in the family? We’re here to help with some ideas for stocking stuffers and gifts. In no particular order here are five great ideas that won’t break the bank: Lorpen Socks: Besides just being a great gift idea in general, socks are a layer that can often be taken for granted or overlooked when thinking of … Continue reading Climbers Christmas Guide 2015
The 2015 version of the Vapor V has been on the market since the spring giving me the opportunity to really put them to the test. The original Vapor V shoes were my go-to shoes for the gym and outdoor face climbing, both cragging and shorter multi-pitch climbs. They performed like the Muira but fit my foot much better. The only complaint that I had with the … Continue reading Review: Scarpa Vapor V
I was recently at the Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City and had a chance to sit down with one of Fixe’s designers to discuss some of the issues that have been cropping up with their new cams and get a few answers to some questions I had regarding the trigger wires and the absent black Alien Evolution cam. As you may or may … Continue reading Update: Alien Evolution Issues
July 6, 2015 Update: Trigger Wire & Sleeve Issues In the month since writing the below article I’ve come across a few small issues with the Alien Evolution Cams. One involving the trigger sleeve and the other the trigger wires. The issues first cropped up on a pitch mid-way up Mt. Slesse. My partner was having trouble getting a green alien cam placement out, a lot of trouble. … Continue reading Update: Alien Evolution, Trigger Wire and Sleeve Issues
When Alien cams were first introduced by Dave Waggoner they revolutionized climbing protection and have since become a familiar name in every crack climbing household. The narrow head and flexible stems were unlike any cam available on the market at the time and could be securely placed where no other cam could. While these cams have set the standard for big walls and protecting tight … Continue reading Field Tested: Alien Evolution Cams
Spring is here once again and many of us are taking our rock gear out of the dark corner that we threw it into after our fall climbing trip and getting ready to hit the crag. To cart all that lightweight but surprisingly heavy gear around most outdoor companies have been coming out with very specialized cragging packs. No longer do you have to use … Continue reading Review: Patagonia Crag Daddy
