The Five Ten Quantum VCS The Quantum VCS are new to the Five Ten shoe line as of spring 2018 (In Canada). Developed with the help of the Huber Brothers, they’re supposedly a velcro version of the Quantum Lace which was released in Spring of ’17. The overall build is not like your standard Five Ten shoe, this new line might be a game changer … Continue reading First Look Review – Five Ten Quantum VCS
Indian Creek is truly a crack climber’s paradise. With mile after mile of beautiful splitters in a magical desert setting it’s easy to see why crack enthusiasts return year after year. But for all you first timers out there this article will focus on some of the key equipment needed for a trip to this dessert climbing mecca. Of course I’m not going cover the … Continue reading Trip Guide: Indian Creek Essentials
One of the more unique and innovative climbing technologies to be released this year is Edelrid’s new BulletProof line of carabiners. These hybrid Stainless Steel / Aluminum Alloy ‘biners blend the benefits of the two metals and are sure to be a popular addition to racks everywhere. Surprisingly this new technology hasn’t seen much fanfare but it’s definitely worth checking out next time you’re at … Continue reading First Look Review: Edelrid Bulletproof Carabiners & Draws
The Totem Cam is truly one of a kind, they offer extraordinary holding power by using a Direct Loading system. For any free or aid climber these hard-to-get cams are a must have. Specs: Size STRENGTH RANGE MIN RANGE MAX WEIGHT Black Totem 0.50 6kN 11.7mm 18.9mm 69g Blue Totem 0.65 8kN 13.8mm 22.5mm 75g Yellow Totem 0.80 9kN 17mm 27.7mm 83g Purple Totem 1.00 10kN 20.9mm 34.2mm … Continue reading 1 Year Review: Totem Cams
Scarpa has been a world leader in the mountain boot industry since 1930 and are still going strong today! Released in 2016, the Phantom Tech is the lightest boot in Scarpa’s Phantom series which also includes the Phantom 6000 and Phantom 8000. While both the 6000 and 8000 are geared more towards high altitude mountaineering, the Tech is designed specifically for technical climbing and replaces the … Continue reading Review: Scarpa Phantom Tech
Petzl first announced the new, upgraded Tibloc at the Outdoor Retailer show in 2015. I was impressed and so after the show I tried to get my hands on one to test out. Unfortunately Petzl had ran into some manufacturing issues and, as time went by, it was starting to look like upgraded Tibloc would never make it to market. But that’s not where the … Continue reading First Look Review: New Petzl Tibloc 2
Beal has really been setting the standard for superlight and safe climbing ropes lately and the new(ish) Gully is no exception. Amazingly light and dry the Gully half/twin ropes excel at alpine and ice climbing. The biggest selling feature for me is the Unicore technology that bonds the sheath to the core and in doing so drastically increases safety (not to mention durability). After a … Continue reading First Look Review: Beal Gully Half/Twin Ropes
I’m constantly amazed at the number of new belay devices that come onto the market each year. And I’m not talking about knock-offs (though there’s lots of those as well) but rather true innovation! Belay devices must get the creative juices flowing in R&D departments or just call to be reinvented. One such innovative and new(ish) device is the Click-Up from Climbing Technology. This assisted … Continue reading Review: Click-Up Belay Device
Since its release, Petzl’s GriGri has been the standard against which all other assisted braking belay devices are compared. With the release of the new GriGri+, Petzl has once again set the bar a little higher. By utilizing their expertise in both recreational climbing and industrial / rope access Petzl was able to improve both the safety and performance of the GriGri+. And while there … Continue reading Review: Petzl GriGri+
The ice climbing community has been undergoing a paradigm shift in regards to avalanche awareness and safety. Like the ski community’s transition to wearing helmets, ice climbers continue to become more aware of avalanches and how to mitigate the associated hazards through knowledge and equipment. This is a much different environment than was present almost 10 years ago when I was getting introduced to the … Continue reading Avalanche Gear for Ice Climbers
