The ice climbing community has been undergoing a paradigm shift in regards to avalanche awareness and safety. Like the ski community’s transition to wearing helmets, ice climbers continue to become more aware of avalanches and how to mitigate the associated hazards through knowledge and equipment. This is a much different environment than was present almost 10 years ago when I was getting introduced to the … Continue reading Avalanche Gear for Ice Climbers
It wasn’t all that long ago that climbers had to choose between a lightweight carabiner and a snag-free carabiner. However, with innovations in technology, material processing and manufacturing more and more companies are blending these two features. We’ve reached the point where most brands have their own version but the designs are all a bit different. So it seemed like a great time for a … Continue reading Comparison Review: Lightweight Snag-free Carabiners
A prusik hitch is an invaluable tool when rock climbing, traveling across glaciers, climbing ropes, etc. However, there are a range of options when it comes to prusik material and of course each has its strengths and weaknesses. I review three of the more common options below in a long winded rant but threw in a few photos to keep you going. Continue reading A Comparison Review of Prusik Cord Options
The new DMM Pivot has stepped away from the standard design for multi-pitch belay devices (dual mode, tube style) and solved a long standing challenge: How to safely lower a second. Features: Weight: 72g Type: Tube style, dual mode Rope Range: 8.7 to 11mm (single) Most standard multi-pitch belay devices look and perform about the same with only superficial differences to differentiate between brands. Some work better … Continue reading Review: DMM Pivot Belay Device
I often get asked how I mark the middle of my climbing ropes when the factory marks start to fade. As I’m sure you know many manufacturers warn against using any dyes or markers on their product leaving people in a difficult position when the center mark disappears. Of course one way to deal with this issue to purchase ropes with a mid-rope pattern change. … Continue reading Refreshing the Center Mark on a Climbing Rope
Squamish, located at the head of Howe Sound, is home to world class rock climbing on granite cliffs that seem to poke right out of the ocean amidst a thick forest of lush, towering trees. It is also home to the annual Arc’teryx Climbing Academy. Organized and run by Arc’teryx, the event will take place July 20-23, 2017. The line-up looks fantastic! Educational seminars and clinics … Continue reading Arc’teryx Climbing Academy 2017
The dark art of piton craft has faded into obscurity for the vast majority of climbers. Because of the propensity to damage and alter the rock when driving a piton, forward thinking climbers started a movement in the 1970’s away from such destructive forms of protection and towards “clean” alternatives. This has evolved to the point where today it’s unthinkable to approach any popular crag … Continue reading Light Piton Hammer Review
When making the step from single to multi-pitch rock climbing you no longer have access to all the kit at the base of the climb. This means that you have decide what’s important enough to haul up the wall and what can be left behind. Below I provide an outline of the technical gear that I typically carry with me into the vertical world. I … Continue reading Essential Gear for Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing
With summer fast approaching I’ve started planning for my annual trip into the Bugaboos, an area renown for towering alpine granite spires in the Purcell Mountains of Southeastern BC, which got me to thinking of my last trip. This past summer I camped at the Applebee Dome campground for a few weeks, a favorite of climbers visiting the area, and met a lot of great … Continue reading Bugaboo Essentials
Modern canister stoves like the MSR Reactor work great and have deservedly become very popular with alpinists and ski tourers. The reason for this popularity is simply because they work really well. The Reactor for example is extremely fast (a key consideration when making coffee in the am!), fuel efficient and works well in the wind. However, the fatal flaw with the Reactor (and other … Continue reading Canister Stove Freezing Fix
