I often get asked how I mark the middle of my climbing ropes when the factory marks start to fade. As I’m sure you know many manufacturers warn against using any dyes or markers on their product leaving people in a difficult position when the center mark disappears. Of course one way to deal with this issue to purchase ropes with a mid-rope pattern change. … Continue reading Refreshing the Center Mark on a Climbing Rope
Squamish, located at the head of Howe Sound, is home to world class rock climbing on granite cliffs that seem to poke right out of the ocean amidst a thick forest of lush, towering trees. It is also home to the annual Arc’teryx Climbing Academy. Organized and run by Arc’teryx, the event will take place July 20-23, 2017. The line-up looks fantastic! Educational seminars and clinics … Continue reading Arc’teryx Climbing Academy 2017
The dark art of piton craft has faded into obscurity for the vast majority of climbers. Because of the propensity to damage and alter the rock when driving a piton, forward thinking climbers started a movement in the 1970’s away from such destructive forms of protection and towards “clean” alternatives. This has evolved to the point where today it’s unthinkable to approach any popular crag … Continue reading Light Piton Hammer Review
When making the step from single to multi-pitch rock climbing you no longer have access to all the kit at the base of the climb. This means that you have decide what’s important enough to haul up the wall and what can be left behind. Below I provide an outline of the technical gear that I typically carry with me into the vertical world. I … Continue reading Essential Gear for Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing
With summer fast approaching I’ve started planning for my annual trip into the Bugaboos, an area renown for towering alpine granite spires in the Purcell Mountains of Southeastern BC, which got me to thinking of my last trip. This past summer I camped at the Applebee Dome campground for a few weeks, a favorite of climbers visiting the area, and met a lot of great … Continue reading Bugaboo Essentials
Modern canister stoves like the MSR Reactor work great and have deservedly become very popular with alpinists and ski tourers. The reason for this popularity is simply because they work really well. The Reactor for example is extremely fast (a key consideration when making coffee in the am!), fuel efficient and works well in the wind. However, the fatal flaw with the Reactor (and other … Continue reading Canister Stove Freezing Fix
Each year at the Outdoor Retailer show hundreds and hundreds of new products and designs are introduced by brands from all over the world. Of course many of these so-called “new” products or innovations are realistically “me-too” products. (me-too product: a brand introduces something new or different, soon after many other brands develop similar products). However, every year there is some real innovation and new … Continue reading 10 Cool Products to Check Out in 2017
Ok, I must admit that I am a bit of a gear junky. I enjoy checking out new gear (who doesn’t), reading technical specs (starting to leave the pack here), checking out design details and analysis (ok, starting to geek out) and at times material or metallurgical details (I know, I know…). But hey, I’m an Engineer (guiding doesn’t cover all the bills) and so … Continue reading Review: DMM Alloy Offset Nuts
With spring fast approaching I’ve found myself thinking about rock climbing more and more and getting excited about the upcoming season. Excited for new climbs and to get back onto old projects, excited to be on the rock with the wind in my hair and the sun on my back. However, as it’s currently pouring rain outside here in Squamish, this excitement has drawn me … Continue reading Climbers Guide to Squamish
