A whole new style of climbing shoe, Scarpa introduces the Maestro range of climbing shoes. Scarpa really went back to the drawing board with these shoes, producing a high performance flat-profile design, with all-day performance and comfort. Replacing the Techno-X, the Maestro has big shoes to fill (pun intended). I would not consider this a remake for the Techno-X but more a totally new shoe to replace it. The Maestro is also a direct competitor to the LaSportiva TC Pro.
I should note Scarpa has 2 versions of this shoe, the Maestro (this review) and Maestro Mid. The largest difference between the two, besides the fact that one is a mid top and the other is not. Is the tension on them, the Maestro has a more aggressive rand.
- Upper Material: 2mm Suede + Microfibre
- Sole Material: Vibram XS Edge
- Sole Thickness: 4 mm
- Last: Slightly Asymmetrical
- Profile: Fairly Flat, Slight Hook
- Flex / Stiffness: Medium To Stiff
- Lining: Microfibre – Low Stretch
The Maestro’s are part of the new Eco Line that is becoming a trend in the climbing industry. This means that the materials are made from more sustainable products, the working environment for employees is healthier (less toxins) and the treatments / glues are more Eco Friendly. This is why you will notice the colour of climbing shoes leather is slightly different with many models and brands.
The Maestros use Active Randing as most Scarpa shoes do, the IPC Tension system (integral power connection) was developed specially for the Maestro line. This IPC-tension system offers support on long stances and long days. I found these shoes worked great for aggressive edging and face climbing with micro edges. The expression “Standing on a dime” is quite literal.
The Upper is made from a high quality leather. Using a leather allows the shoe to mold nicely to your foot after about 10 pitches. The rubber that protects the toe is strong enough to protect your foot while toe jamming, yet supple enough to keep a soft feel in the toe box.
Using 4mm of well tested XS Edge rubber give you the ability to stick to granite (and other rocks). The same rubber used on the TC Pro, Miura , etc. You can trust the rubber to preform it best!
A nice touch Scarpa did was adding 2mm of XS Grip 2 in the heel’s midsole. The idea for this was to give support while maintaining comfort.
When trying on the Maestro I was planning on getting a bigger size than I did. I found these shoe fit the best for me in a more snug size. No regrets, they are my edging masters. That said, my friend Bronwyn got them sized for Indian Creek (comfy) and she still climbed happily on Squamish Granite and Spain Limestone (Tufa’s).
The Maestro used the FY last, its is designed for a technical fit on a medium volume foot. It is sightly asymmetric and gives great persisting for edges and smears. It does have a slightly thick feel due to the rubber that gives good protection, this makes it a little hard to jam in thin finger cracks. I personally find with thin cracks you stand on slaby crystals beside the cack.
Nothing new here, Vibram XS Edge is one of the best hard rubbers on the market. To give you an idea it’s used on the following shoes; TC Pro, Miura, Techno-X, Force-V, Katana Lace, Vapour V, etc.
XS Edge really says it all, this rubber is hard and designed for edging. It will withstand lots of abuse and give you a full life. The firm rubber will preform best around 0-10 Degrees Celsius, that’s if your feet are not frozen haha.
I found these shoes great in terms of durability. That said I have mainly used them on slabs, face, and finger cracks. Looking at the soft leather on the side, I wonder if it would take a beating in hand cracks.
I have heard of a couple cases that people got some holes in the side leather, but it was also covered by warranty, so no harm done.
Overall I personally have had no problems and anticipate a full life from the Maestro!
Would I recommend these shoes?
Hell yes, they are my new performance trad shoe including slabs. I even would highly consider these for technical face climbing.
Not my first choice for gym, bouldering, or steep sport. Though I have several friends who use this as their everything shoe and crush!
- Hold edge’s amazing
- Great fitting heel
- Comfy for all day
- Not ideal for steep climbing
- Slow to take on and off