Scarpa recently released the new Maestro rock shoe in both a mid and a low version. These new flat lasted shoes are designed for all-day comfort without sacrificing performance and they definitely didn’t disappoint. This review will focus on the Maestro Mid, the high-top version of the shoe. I haven’t tested the low-cut version but have been told that they’re slightly more aggressive as the rand is tensioned a bit more.
- Weight: 318g/shoe (size 43)
- Profile: Flat
- Symmetry: Mildly Asymmetric
- Rand: IPC-Tension
- Last: FY
- Rubber: 4mm Vibram XS Edge
- MidSole: Talyn 1.2mm
- Upper: 2mm Eco leather
- Lining: None
- Padded Tongue & Ankles
I’ve been testing the new Maestro Mid shoes for about a month now and taken them on several longer multi-pitch trad routes (10+ pitches), friction slabs, edgy routes and of course lots of cracks. The rock has all been granite and the grades have varied from 5.8 to 5.11-.
Fit & Feel:
As a mildly asymmetric shoe with a flat profile the Maestro Mid fits great right out of the box. The eco leather is soft against a bare foot and the shoes have a very flexible and dexterous feel. The toe box is a little on the wider side which my medium width feet really appreciated. Unfortunately the heel fit isn’t the best with a bit of a bubble. That isn’t to say that the heel has a sloppy fit, it just has a small bubble.
The protected laces move quite smoothly making the shoes easy to put on and tighten. However, the wide and padded tongue often curls at the edges where the padding ends which can require a little extra effort.
I’ve been very impressed with the versatility and performance offered by the Maestros. Featuring Scarpa’s new IPC-Tensioned active rand system they’re designed to provide support without needing to be overly stiff. And it seems to have worked out! They’re quite soft and supple at the toes providing terrific dexterity and precision on slabs and small features but they still edge fairly well. Without any downturn in the toe it takes a bit more effort to get power out of thin edges though. The padded tongue and rubber toe cap make the Maestro Mid shoes secure and comfortable in cracks while the padded ankles provide protection when things get wide. On thinner cracks and seams the toes have enough flexibility to twist into edges and provide a secure feel. Overall a very versatile and comfortable all-day shoe that performs surprisingly well in technical terrain.
As a first-look review I can’t comment much on durability though the Maestro Mid shoes have performed quite well for me in that regard so far. My Maestro’s are immaculately finished with good rubber adherence, no loose stitching or any other manufacturing issues. I expect to get a lot of life out of them.
The Maestro Mid Ecos fit true to Scarpa’s sizing. I have a pair of size 43’s, the same size as my Vapor and Techno X shoes and a half size bigger than my TC Pros. Despite being leather I haven’t found that the shoes have stretched much since coming out of the box. Likely due to the high rubber randing and rubber toe cap. They have relaxed just a little bit though.
Pros: Comfortable, well made, versatile, great performance
Cons: Deep heel pocket has a bit of bubble
Overall: A fantastic option if you’re looking for a comfortable all-round shoe that will perform when you need it to. Ideal for all your trad, long multi-pitch and alpine climbing endeavors. Not for steep sport, gym or bouldering.
We were supplied with a pair of shoes for testing but of course this didn’t influence our review in any way. Cover Photo: Bonnie McIntrye.