Tag: Rock Climbing

Edelrid BulletProof
Reviews, Rock & Ice

First Look Review: Edelrid Bulletproof Carabiners & Draws

One of the more unique and innovative climbing technologies to be released this year is Edelrid’s new BulletProof line of carabiners. These hybrid Stainless Steel / Aluminum Alloy ‘biners blend the benefits of the two metals and are sure to be a popular addition to racks everywhere. Surprisingly this new technology hasn’t seen much fanfare but it’s definitely worth checking out next time you’re at … Continue reading First Look Review: Edelrid Bulletproof Carabiners & Draws

Monte Johnston
Edelrid Boa Eco
Articles, Tips & Tricks

From Gym to Crag Pt. 2: How to Pick a Climbing Rope

Selecting a climbing rope can be confusing given all the different types and features available. This article focuses on giving you the information you need to select the right rope to climb at your local crag. When it comes to buying your first cragging rope to go there are two main factors to consider: Diameter & Length. Simple right! You can ignore options such as … Continue reading From Gym to Crag Pt. 2: How to Pick a Climbing Rope

Monte Johnston
Articles, Tips & Tricks

From Gym to Crag Pt. 1: Choosing Quickdraws

Many new climbers are looking to transition from the gym to pulling on real rock. But to go outside some new toys are needed. This series of articles focuses on helping climbers select the right equipment to get out cragging. This first of the series will examine quickdraws. If you simply want to go top-roping you can skip this purchase for now. There’s a huge … Continue reading From Gym to Crag Pt. 1: Choosing Quickdraws

Monte Johnston
Reviews, Rock & Ice

1 Year Review: Totem Cams

The Totem Cam is truly one of a kind, they offer extraordinary holding power by using a Direct Loading system.  For any free or aid climber these hard-to-get cams are a must have. Specs: Size STRENGTH RANGE MIN RANGE MAX WEIGHT Black Totem 0.50 6kN 11.7mm 18.9mm 69g Blue Totem  0.65 8kN 13.8mm 22.5mm 75g Yellow Totem 0.80 9kN 17mm 27.7mm 83g Purple Totem  1.00 10kN 20.9mm 34.2mm … Continue reading 1 Year Review: Totem Cams

Nic Vissers
Reviews, Rock & Ice

Review: Click-Up Belay Device

I’m constantly amazed at the number of new belay devices that come onto the market each year. And I’m not talking about knock-offs (though there’s lots of those as well) but rather true innovation! Belay devices must get the creative juices flowing in R&D departments or just call to be reinvented. One such innovative and new(ish) device is the Click-Up from Climbing Technology. This assisted … Continue reading Review: Click-Up Belay Device

Monte Johnston
Alpine & Mountaineering, Reviews, Rock & Ice

Review: Petzl GriGri+

Since its release, Petzl’s GriGri has been the standard against which all other assisted braking belay devices are compared.  With the release of the new GriGri+, Petzl has once again set the bar a little higher. By utilizing their expertise in both recreational climbing and industrial / rope access Petzl was able to improve both the safety and performance of the GriGri+. And while there … Continue reading Review: Petzl GriGri+

Monte Johnston
Lightweight Carabiner
Articles, Reviews, Rock & Ice

Comparison Review: Lightweight Snag-free Carabiners

It wasn’t all that long ago that climbers had to choose between a lightweight carabiner and a snag-free carabiner. However, with innovations in technology, material processing and manufacturing more and more companies are blending these two features. We’ve reached the point where most brands have their own version but the designs are all a bit different. So it seemed like a great time for a … Continue reading Comparison Review: Lightweight Snag-free Carabiners

Monte Johnston
Alien Revolution Cam
Reviews, Rock & Ice

Review Update: Alien Revolution Cam

Fixe recently came out with the newest rendition of the Alien cam, the Revolution (not to be confused with the 2015 Evolution model).  It seems the idea behind the redesign of the updated cam was to address a few of the flaws or issues that they’d been experiencing.  Namely the trigger wires fraying and the trigger sleeve detaching.  A more detailed description and some photos of these … Continue reading Review Update: Alien Revolution Cam

Monte Johnston
Articles, Tips & Tricks

A Comparison Review of Prusik Cord Options

A prusik hitch is an invaluable tool when rock climbing, traveling across glaciers, climbing ropes, etc. However, there are a range of options when it comes to prusik material and of course each has its strengths and weaknesses. I review three of the more common options below in a long winded rant but threw in a few photos to keep you going. Continue reading A Comparison Review of Prusik Cord Options

Monte Johnston
DMM Pivot
Articles

Review: DMM Pivot Belay Device

The new DMM Pivot has stepped away from the standard design for multi-pitch belay devices (dual mode, tube style) and solved a long standing challenge: How to safely lower a second. Features: Weight:  72g Type:     Tube style, dual mode Rope Range:  8.7 to 11mm (single) Most standard multi-pitch belay devices look and perform about the same with only superficial differences to differentiate between brands.  Some work better … Continue reading Review: DMM Pivot Belay Device

Monte Johnston