Alpine & Mountaineering, Articles, Reviews, Rock & Ice

The Arcteryx Lithos SL Review

Brian getting ready to climb in the Arcteryx Lithos SL harness

This summer I got my hands on the new Arcteryx Lithos SL Harness and spent a good stretch of time in it, both on rock in Squamish and at the climbing gym. Its most notable trait is its functional minimalism. Where most harnesses carry four gear loops, the Lithos SL has two. A narrow waistband and non-adjustable, size-specific leg loops keep the design streamlined, and that minimalism doesn’t hold the Lithos SL back from competing with fuller harnesses

Key Specs

  • Weight: 275g (9.7 oz)
  • Materials: Body is Burly™ double-weave, 220gsm (56% nylon, 34% polyester, 10% elastane). Contrast panels are 690d Cordura 6,6 plain weave (100% nylon). Both fabrics are bluepass material.
  • Size tested: [add size, e.g., 3-A]
  • Origin: Fabric and dyeing in Taiwan and China. Manufactured in China.
  • Color: Black / Mantis

What Is Burly?

Burly Double Weave is Arcteryx’s name for a stretch-woven softshell fabric. It is made of two interlocking weaves: a smooth, tough outer face, usually nylon, and a softer inner face, usually polyester, that wicks moisture. A durable water-repellent (DWR) finish helps it shed light moisture. Because it has no waterproof membrane, Burly is breathable and flexible but not waterproof. Its strength is abrasion resistance and comfort, which is why Arcteryx uses it across outerwear, pants, gloves, and harnesses. On the Lithos SL, it makes up the body of the harness.

Performance & On-Route Experience

Arcteryx says they designed the Lithos SL as a “precision engineered sport-climbing harness.” Initially, I was skeptical of only two gear loops, feeling uncomfortable switching from the four loops I was accustomed to. However, after a few laps of sport climbing, I felt there was very little compromise carrying full sets of 14+ quickdraws on a pitch. Moreover, I was even comfortable doing some head-point style trad climbing with a specific, minimal trad rack. That being said, carrying a full trad rack would be out of the question on the Lithos SL, and a few times I wished I had separate loops for a sling or a locker.

Comfort & Durability

Comfort-wise, I appreciated the light weight of the Lithos SL, it is lighter than any harness I’ve used that is comfortable for sustained hang-dogging. The downside was that I felt the material that makes up the leg loops and waist belt was quite stiff and dug in a little bit. Perhaps the material will soften up with more time, but it was notably rigid even after a few days of climbing. The material seemed durable and I noticed no signs of wear after a few sessions on rough Squamish granite.

Sizing Schema

One notable aspect of the Lithos SL is the sizing schema. Rather than the traditional Small, Medium, Large sizing, Arcteryx opted to have separate sizing for both the waist belt and leg loops. Specifically, sizes 1 through 6 correspond to waist size, and sizes A and B correspond to leg loop size. In theory, this is a great idea for a fixed leg loop harness. I often find myself, especially after a season of ski touring, with a slim waist and beefy legs. This new sizing system allows for more custom sizing to fit varying body sizes. The downside is that it can be a bit more difficult to guess your sizing without visiting a store to try on in person. But, Arcteryx does provide a useful measuring chart to make sure you pick the right fit.

The Verdict

Overall, the Lithos SL is a well-made harness, and I give kudos to Arcteryx for pushing innovation and trying new things—only two gear loops, new sizing scheme. For someone looking for a harness solely for the climbing gym, this harness would be at the top of my list to recommend—that is where mine is going to be used the most. For sport climbers, this harness has its place as well, though it can feel a bit minimalistic for carrying anything other than quickdraws. Lastly, for anyone focused on shaving every last gram for their max red-point burns, the Lithos SL is the harness for you.

If you are looking at picking up an Arcteryx Lithos SL Harness head on over to Arcteryx Canada or Arcteryx USA. 

DISCLAIMER

BlackSheep was provided with a free sample of the Arcteryx Lithos SL Harness for this review. This in no way affected our editorial stance. This post also contains affiliate links; if you choose to purchase gear through these links, we may earn a small commission which supports our independent testing at no extra cost to you.