Tag: Rock Climbing

Edelrid Boa Eco
Reviews, Rock & Ice

Edelrid Boa Eco (AKA Parrot) Climbing Rope Review

Every climber needs a robust, all-round go-to rope that they can abuse at the crag.  Something to use when working a project, top-roping or teaching a friend how to climb.  While all these sleek new triple rated, by-patterned, dry certified, sub 9mm ropes on the market are great, they’re also quite specialized and not really meant for everyday cragging.  For that type of service the Edelrid … Continue reading Edelrid Boa Eco (AKA Parrot) Climbing Rope Review

Monte Johnston
Arcteryx Climbing Academy
Articles, Editorials

Arc’teryx Climbing Academy 2017

Squamish, located at the head of Howe Sound, is home to world class rock climbing on granite cliffs that seem to poke right out of the ocean amidst a thick forest of lush, towering trees. It is also home to the annual Arc’teryx Climbing Academy.   Organized and run by Arc’teryx, the event will take place July 20-23, 2017. The line-up looks fantastic!  Educational seminars and clinics … Continue reading Arc’teryx Climbing Academy 2017

Monte Johnston
Piton Hammer
Articles

Light Piton Hammer Review

The dark art of piton craft has faded into obscurity for the vast majority of climbers. Because of the propensity to damage and alter the rock when driving a piton, forward thinking climbers started a movement in the 1970’s away from such destructive forms of protection and towards “clean” alternatives.  This has evolved to the point where today it’s unthinkable to approach any popular crag … Continue reading Light Piton Hammer Review

Monte Johnston
Wallrider Helmet
Alpine & Mountaineering, Reviews, Rock & Ice

Mammut Wall Rider Helmet Review

Mammut’s innovative new helmet, the Wall Rider, features an Expanded polypropylene (EPP) foam body with a smallpolycarbonate cap on the top.  This hybrid of exposed foam and hard-shell blends the features of two different helmet designs: the traditional lightweight in-mold helmet design and the super-light exposed foam design of the Sirocco (Petzl is upgrading the Sirocco with a similar composite design but I haven’t gotten my … Continue reading Mammut Wall Rider Helmet Review

Monte Johnston
Articles, Tips & Tricks

Essential Gear for Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing

When making the step from single to multi-pitch rock climbing you no longer have access to all the kit at the base of the climb.  This means that you have decide what’s important enough to haul up the wall and what can be left behind.  Below I provide an outline of the technical gear that I typically carry with me into the vertical world.  I … Continue reading Essential Gear for Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing

Monte Johnston
Helinox Chair One
Other, Reviews, Travel & Lifestyle

Helinox Chair One

Like many back-country enthusiasts I do a lot of camping to facilitate my addictions to skiing, climbing and alpinism.  This can involve easy car camping where I drive right up to the camping spot (Indian Creek, Red Rocks, Yosemite, etc.) to locations where I take a helicopter or plane into a camping area (Tantalus, St. Elias, Ruth, etc.) to where I actually need to hump … Continue reading Helinox Chair One

Monte Johnston
Articles, Editorials

10 Cool Products to Check Out in 2017

Each year at the Outdoor Retailer show hundreds and hundreds of new products and designs are introduced by brands from all over the world.  Of course many of these so-called “new” products or innovations are realistically “me-too” products.  (me-too product: a brand introduces something new or different, soon after many other brands develop similar products).  However, every year there is some real innovation and new … Continue reading 10 Cool Products to Check Out in 2017

Monte Johnston
Climbing Knife
Alpine & Mountaineering, Reviews, Rock & Ice

Climbing Knife Comparison Review

A good knife is an essential tool for all types of climbing.  It’s used for cleaning manky tat off at a rap anchor, cutting cord for a v-thread, removing tape gloves, cutting a stuck rope out of a crack, slicing up a crag apple or cheese and much more.  Despite the obvious importance of a knife in climbing it doesn’t seem to get discussed much … Continue reading Climbing Knife Comparison Review

Monte Johnston
Patagonia Houdini
Apparel, Reviews

Review: Patagonia Houdini

Patagonia’s Houdini Jacket is a simple, lightweight, weather resistant shell that almost disappears into its own pocket when it’s not being used.  While advertised as a shell for runners on Patagonia’s website we tested it on some multi-pitch rock climbs where weight and bulk are the enemy.  The Houdini worked very well as a wind resistant layer and kept me dry during a few short … Continue reading Review: Patagonia Houdini

Monte Johnston
DMM Offset Nuts
Articles

Review: DMM Alloy Offset Nuts

Ok, I must admit that I am a bit of a gear junky.  I enjoy checking out new gear (who doesn’t), reading technical specs (starting to leave the pack here), checking out design details and analysis (ok, starting to geek out) and at times material or metallurgical details (I know, I know…).  But hey, I’m an Engineer (guiding doesn’t cover all the bills) and so … Continue reading Review: DMM Alloy Offset Nuts

Monte Johnston