Black Diamond Evac 7

Review: Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel

Black Diamond, like many companies that make avalanche rescue equipment, has an avalanche shovel that can be set-up either as a hoe or shovel.  However, the elegant design of the BD Evac 7 make the conversion between the two modes simple and intuitive on a shovel that is still light and extremely effective at moving a lot of snow quickly. Before looking at this particular … Continue reading Review: Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel

Scarpa Vapor V

Review: Scarpa Vapor V

The 2015 version of the Vapor V has been on the market since the spring giving me the opportunity to really put them to the test.  The original Vapor V shoes were my go-to shoes for the gym and outdoor face climbing, both cragging and shorter multi-pitch climbs.  They performed like the Muira but fit my foot much better.  The only complaint that I had with the … Continue reading Review: Scarpa Vapor V

Alien cam

Update: Alien Evolution Issues

I was recently at the Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City and had a chance to sit down with one of Fixe’s designers to discuss some of the issues that have been cropping up with their new cams and get a few answers to some questions I had regarding the trigger wires and the absent black Alien Evolution cam. As you may or may … Continue reading Update: Alien Evolution Issues

Alien Evolution

Update: Alien Evolution, Trigger Wire and Sleeve Issues

July 6, 2015 Update:  Trigger Wire & Sleeve Issues In the month since writing the below article I’ve come across a few small issues with the Alien Evolution Cams.  One involving the trigger sleeve and the other the trigger wires.  The issues first cropped up on a pitch mid-way up Mt. Slesse.  My partner was having trouble getting a green alien cam placement out, a lot of trouble.  … Continue reading Update: Alien Evolution, Trigger Wire and Sleeve Issues

Alien cams

Field Tested: Alien Evolution Cams

When Alien cams were first introduced by Dave Waggoner they revolutionized climbing protection and have since become a familiar name in every crack climbing household.  The narrow head and flexible stems were unlike any cam available on the market at the time and could be securely placed where no other cam could.  While these cams have set the standard for big walls and protecting tight … Continue reading Field Tested: Alien Evolution Cams

Patagonia Crag Daddy

Review: Patagonia Crag Daddy

Spring is here once again and many of us are taking our rock gear out of the dark corner that we threw it into after our fall climbing trip and getting ready to hit the crag.  To cart all that lightweight but surprisingly heavy gear around most outdoor companies have been coming out with very specialized cragging packs.  No longer do you have to use … Continue reading Review: Patagonia Crag Daddy