Alien cam

Update: Alien Evolution Issues

I was recently at the Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City and had a chance to sit down with one of Fixe’s designers to discuss some of the issues that have been cropping up with their new cams and get a few answers to some questions I had regarding the trigger wires and the absent black Alien Evolution cam. As you may or may … Continue reading Update: Alien Evolution Issues

Alien Evolution

Update: Alien Evolution, Trigger Wire and Sleeve Issues

July 6, 2015 Update:  Trigger Wire & Sleeve Issues In the month since writing the below article I’ve come across a few small issues with the Alien Evolution Cams.  One involving the trigger sleeve and the other the trigger wires.  The issues first cropped up on a pitch mid-way up Mt. Slesse.  My partner was having trouble getting a green alien cam placement out, a lot of trouble.  … Continue reading Update: Alien Evolution, Trigger Wire and Sleeve Issues

Alien cams

Field Tested: Alien Evolution Cams

When Alien cams were first introduced by Dave Waggoner they revolutionized climbing protection and have since become a familiar name in every crack climbing household.  The narrow head and flexible stems were unlike any cam available on the market at the time and could be securely placed where no other cam could.  While these cams have set the standard for big walls and protecting tight … Continue reading Field Tested: Alien Evolution Cams

Crack Climbing Shoes

Comparison Review: Crack Shoes

As a climber, I find that one of the hardest pieces of equipment to get right are my climbing shoes.  They never feel the same in the atmosphere controlled environment of the local climbing shop after wearing them for a few minutes as they do wrapped around my fear sweat soaked feet a few pitches up a sun baked rock wall.  Add to that the … Continue reading Comparison Review: Crack Shoes

Patagonia Crag Daddy

Review: Patagonia Crag Daddy

Spring is here once again and many of us are taking our rock gear out of the dark corner that we threw it into after our fall climbing trip and getting ready to hit the crag.  To cart all that lightweight but surprisingly heavy gear around most outdoor companies have been coming out with very specialized cragging packs.  No longer do you have to use … Continue reading Review: Patagonia Crag Daddy

La Sportiva Nepal Cube

Review: La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX

I’ve been using the Nepal Evo GTX for a few years now but recently had the opportunity to try the new Nepal Cube GTX (these names are a bit of a mouthful… let’s go with Evo and Cube for simplicity).  This new addition to the Nepal line-up not only looks way cooler than my old Evo’s (and you have to admit that’s an important feature) … Continue reading Review: La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX